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Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.Today's video is all about m
en's jewelry. We discuss what it is, how to wear it, andgeneral do's and don'ts. So to start, what is men's jewellery?Throughout history in different cultures what can and cannot be worn by men hasvaried and still varies greatly.
For example, ifyou think of the Maharajas in India or the French kings of the 18th centurywith their showy gems, it could be considered to be effeminateor over the top in this day and age.
However,if anything, history has shown us that wearing jewelry as men is something very normal. By definition,jewelry is any accessory that is made in parts of metal orgemstones or semi-precious stones that serves as an ornamentation anddoesn't necessarily have any practical value.
So what are some typical pieces of men's jewelry? Well let's start withcufflinks and actually, they do serve a purpose but just because they do,doesn't mean they're not jewelry because they are very decorative.
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When it comes to men's jewelry apart from rings, cufflinksare probably the most widely worn item today.Most of them come in metals, usually are less expensive, more precious metalsinclude sterling silver, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold,or platinum.
You can have a sterling silver cufflink that isheavily plated with platinum or gold that will never rub off andyou can pass on to your grandchildren. Sometimes cufflinks have decorativeelements such as enamel or semi-precious stone insertssuch as lapis lazuli or onyx or they could have sapphires orrubies.
Sometimes they're also made out of shellsuch as mother of pearl or maybe some jade. Of course, cufflinksrequire you to wear a shirt that is made for them which istypically a French cuff or double cuff shirtthat is folded over. For white tie, you can also have a single-cuffed shirt that is also worn with cufflinks.
In a more casual setting,you can sometimes find combination cuffs which are button cuffs but they alsohave two buttonholes so they can be worn with cufflinks.To learn everything you need to know about cufflinks, please check out thisin-depth guide.
Personally, I love to wear cufflinks andwhen I wear a suit, I usually always wear cufflinks and evenwith a sport coat. If you're interested, you can watch this video that gives you a glimpse into my cufflink collection and if you'reinterested in high quality cufflinks at a fair price,check out the cufflinks at the Fort Belvedere shop here.
The second item of jewelry that is not aspopular today anymore are shirt studs and waistcoat buttons. Traditionally,shirt studs were worn with formal outfits such as a black tieoutfit or white tie and they were just moredecorative than the regular buttons you have sewn-on on dress shirts today.
Often, those shirt studs would match the cufflinks and you basically had a set.Now today, most people don't attend many black tie functionsand so, it's really valuable to have a pair of cufflinks that can be wornindependently of formal functions. Also, if you travel, you can just bringone set of shirt studs and cufflinks and you can wear itwith regular events, with business events, and for formal events.
Because of that, Idesigned a set with monkey fist cufflinksthat you can find here. You can buy them independently, you can wear themindependently, but it's kind of the one set that worksfor all. If you want to learn more about shirt studs, please check outour black tie and white tie guides here.
Traditionally, men would also wearremovable matching waistcoat buttons so you had shirt studs,cufflinks, and waistcoat buttons all in the samelook. This was called a full dress set andtoday, you can't really find them new anymore.
You have to buy those vintage but if you go to all those lengthsand dress up for black tie and white tie, you might as wellgo the extra mile, especially if you're into clothesand it's just a hobby and a passion for you just like it is for me.Number three: watches.
Again, it's functional, it tells you time,but ultimately today, it's more of a jewelry piece for most menespecially if they invest a lot of money into itto show off certain complications or just a really cool look.Of course, one could argue if it has a leather strap,it's more of an accessory.
If it has a metal band, it's more of a piece ofjewelry but at the end of the day, it doesn'tmatter. It's all about what you think and how you feel.
As a funnyside note, historically, it was impolite to have a watch with youbecause if you would look at it in company, you would imply that you hadbetter things to do which would have been considered to berude.
Then came the pocket watch and today, people wear their RolexSubmariner with their tuxedo outfits even though itdoesn't make sense from a formality point of view. If you wantto learn more about the scale formality in classic menswear,check out this video.
Perhaps, the mostobvious jewelry item a men can wear is a classicring; the most common one being the wedding band or the wedding ringbut you can also have things like a pinky ring or a signet ring.
If you're interested in the differences, we have videos for each one of them thatyou can check out. So how many rings should you wearand what's the specific meaning of a ring if you wear it on your thumb oryour middle finger check out this video.
Personally, Ilike rings a lot and I have quite the collection and ofcourse, I made a video about it, too. Typically, I wear a wedding band andone other ring -- be the pinky ring or something on thering finger on the opposite hand. The fifth man's jewelry items are tiebars or tie clips.
Particularly, men who don't just dress upbecause they have to but because they want to find it's justanother thing they can add to make their outfit morespecial. Another functional advantage of a tie bar is ifyou have one shoulder is lower than the otherlike me, your tie will have a tendency to go in one directionand a tie clip can keep it in place all day so it always looks neat.
My entire clips are an elegant example of having afunctional item that still serves an ornamental purpose.Sometimes, you can even find vintage sets that have matching tie barsand cufflinks back in the 60s, 70s, and 80syou could also find tie tacks and sometimes they had chains that held yourtie in place.
If you wear it today it gives you acertain vintage look which is okay. If that's what you'regoing for but it's definitely a modern aesthetic. If you go in thefurther back men wore tie stick pins which was just apin that would go through your tie and no, it doesn't damage it even thoughit leaves a little hole.
Today, you can wear them with ascotsespecially formal ones and maybe even with a formal three-piecesuit. I like the look of it because it's verysubtle but it's different. Prince Charles, for example,still wears them today and particularly with morning wearensembles.
Of course, if you want to learn how to use a stick pinfor a formal cravat, please check out this video and if you want to learn more about tie tacks and tie clipsand where to position them so you look the part,here is a video for you. The sixth piece of men's jewelryare collar pins.
Collar clips or collar barsand those at their heyday during the 1930s.At that time, a lot of men would wear them over the years.They almost completely lost their appeal to main streetand really only dandies or clothes horses would wear themto underline their unique style.
Fortunately, in recent years due to showssuch as Boardwalk Empire Madmen, Peaky Blinders or Perry Mason,more men have become aware of collar clips and collar pins and as aconsequence, you see more of them wearing them today.
Again, they're typically worn by men who don't feel like they have to wear auniform but who see clothing as an expression oftheir personal style and they enjoy it. Traditionally, collarbars, clips, and pins were only worn with very narrow collars because youcouldn't have that much of a spread.
It would slightly elevate the tie knotbut today, collars are typically a bit more spreadand so with all our customers asked us to make a wider collar clip,and so we listened and we did.
To learn more abouthow to wear a collar clip or pin in your outfit without looking over the topcheck out this video here and to learn more about the history,we got you covered too.
Number seven: chainsand fobs. When the pocket watch was at itspeak, men would of course also have a pocket watch chainthat they would wear.
Typically, the vest had a little hole or it was justpulled to a buttonhole and you would see it in the front and the pocket watchwas in your vest pocket.
If you wear a watch chain today,it adds a distinctive vintage look to your appearanceand people typically only do it if they're really into clothes.Personally, I really like wearing a double Albert chainwith a hole in a double-breasted vest because it has this symmetrical look,has a little fob on it and it's just very debonaire in my mind.
When it became historically okay to wear a timepiece with your evening wearand people weren't offended if you looked at it, first, you hadreally flat thin pocket watches and those wouldn't be wornwith a long watch chain but with a simple fabric fobor that was a bit decorative in your vestwaistcoat pocket.
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